“Real” Toyama!
Three local restaurants not to be missed

Introduction

It’s hard to explain exactly what is so captivating about Toyama, what about the city that makes its foreign residents feel such a deep connection to it even if they only live here for a year or two. Though not exactly a tourist hotspot, Toyama has its share of quirks and charms which give it its own sense of identity - perhaps its status as not quite a big city but not quite countryside is what makes it so attractive. Many will attribute Toyama’s charms to the beautiful scenery and delicious food, and while those are absolutely important factors, I personally would put it down to the “kenminsei”, the “characteristics of the people of the prefecture”.

From quite literally the very first day I arrived in the city, I’ve been treated with nothing but kindness and respect from the residents of the city, willing to accept my “foreignness” and lack of understanding of the rules and manners of the country. The people of Toyama may seem shy but in general they are actually often more than willing and excited to talk with the various international guests to the prefecture.

Now having settled in the city with a wife and two kids, I’d love for other foreign visitors to understand and experience what makes Toyama such a special and unique city in Japan. The restaurants I have chosen for this project were based on my many years here; somewhat hidden gems that may be easy to miss and not necessarily on lists of the must-see places in the prefecture. And who knows, if you do venture to the places listed here you might just end up meeting me too!

#1 Bunke Ayumizushi Jun – Sushi

With Toyama’s re-brand as the “City of Sushi”, it seemed most apt to start by introducing one of the best sushi restaurants in the city. Located just north of the Prefectural Government Park (the one with a huge fountain), about an 8-minute walk from Toyama Station, Ayumizushi Jun’s simplistic exterior is a great example of the duality of Japanese culture, a far cry from the gaudy neon signs of the nation’s capital. The restaurant itself is a small, simple affair – a counter with a few seats and small tatami room with a raised floor, suited for group meals.

The owner, Mr. Ikeguchi, runs the restaurant with his wife and the two of them create a fantastically warm and welcoming environment. Ayumizushi itself is a small Toyama chain comprised of four restaurants, the word “bunke” in the title meaning something like “branch” in English. Ayumizushi focuses on “edomaezushi”, or “Edo period sushi”, which largely focuses on “nigiri” style sushi, the kind with rice on the bottom and fish on the top, as opposed to the seaweed wrapped “makizushi”.

Mr. Ikeguchi is very knowledgeable about sushi and that absolutely comes across in his food – the passion with which he prepares his food is visible in both its presentation and flavour. Succulent, perfectly measured pieces of raw fish accompany fluffy, glutinous rice, both of which are staples of the prefecture and most likely the reason for the “City of Sushi” rebrand itself. Indeed, though the fish in the sushi is usually seen as the so-called star of the show, the rice itself is equally important and with all things equal, the rice can be the dealbreaker between a good piece of sushi and an excellent one.

For many visitors to Japan, the idea of going into a locally known, high quality sushi restaurant can seem quite daunting, and in fact many years ago another branch of Ayumizushi was the first “proper” sushi restaurant that I myself went to. Though it wasn’t Mr. Ikeguchi himself that I met at that time (Ayumizushi Jun opened in 2016), the experience is one of my fondest early memories of living in Toyama, welcomed into a new world of flavour by a kind sushi master and not made to feel embarrassed or ashamed of my lack of knowledge about not only the sushi but the manners of the restaurant itself.

For those worried about manners, please take a look at the video on the Toyama City Tourism Association webpage showing how to eat real sushi, starring myself and Mr. Ikeguchi himself. Though Toyama is replete with fantastic sushi restaurants, I would absolutely recommend Bunke Ayumizushi Jun for both newcomers to the sushi world who’d like to experience it without pressure, and seasoned sushi veterans who’d like to see what Toyama Bay has to offer. Just don’t forget to reserve first – it’s a small restaurant which fills up quickly. Highly, highly recommended!

#2 Suikoukaku – Japanese Style Chinese Restaurant

Suikoukaku, a “chuuka ryouri” (Japanese-styled Chinese food) restaurant is nestled on a side street just off Joshi Main Street, and would be fairly easy to miss if not for its distinctive bright red and white exterior. That and the fact that it’s not unusual to see people queueing both inside and outside of it even at 2 or 3 o’clock in the morning, as Japanese people like to enjoy a final bowl of ramen after a night of heavy drinking (in much the same way as we Brits enjoy a donner kebab at that sort of time).

While I couldn’t seem to find the origin of the name itself - literally it would be something like “Broad Stylish Pavillion” in English – the restaurant itself has been a part of Toyama for more than 60 years, originally in the moody “Cinema Dining Arcade” area that used to be opposite JR Toyama Station, before moving to its current location when the aforementioned arcade was torn down and replaced with the relatively new dining area “Patio Sakura” and a Toyoko Inn.

I’m not exactly sure how they accomplished it, but if you’d told me that Suikoukaku had been in its current location for the entire 65 years that that the business has been in existence I wouldn’t be surprised. It’s currently being run by Mr. Takikawa, the son of the original owners who has taken it over. The restaurant has something of a comfortable “worn in” feel, without being dirty or dingy, and that irresistible baked in smell of guilty calories and beer. The energy of the place is fantastic – huge groups of drunken salarymen clinking glasses and cheering, couples laughing and joking, groups of friends, old and new. There’s no exclusivity or awkwardness for new customers – just come on in, sit down, and start ordering.

And of course, an introduction to Suikoukaku wouldn’t be complete without mentioning the food and drink that it serves. I can’t think of a time that I’ve been there without ordering at least the gyoza (Japanese dumplings, or “potstickers”) and the fried rice. The gyoza is cooked perfectly; slightly charred on the bottom, soft on the top, juicy in the middle – absolutely delicious and perfect with a pint of beer. Other highlights include the “ebi mayo” (Fried shrimp with mayonnaise), “hoikourou” (twice cooked pork), and of course the many varieties of ramen; salt, butter, wonton, and tantan to name but a few. They also offer a great selection of drinks – beer, highballs, and sours (in both standard and “mega” size), Japanese sake, shochu, and even red and white wine.

In the same way that the “American” sushi you’d eat in California would be markedly different to the “real sushi” you’d find in a city like Toyama, the “Chinese” food you eat in Japan is more like its own take on the subject than the “real thing”, but if you’ve never indulged before then I’d strongly recommend giving it a try!

#3 Shiny Mountain – Irish Pub

The unmistakably green Shiny Mountain with its large round “Guiness” sign is a quick 5-minute walk from JR Toyama Station and on the same street as Suikoukaku. Shiny Mountain has everything that you might need to have a fantastic night out – great food, a wide selection of drinks including locally brewed favourite “Kobo Beer,” and an undeniably energetic aura probably stemming from its largely bilingual customer base.

Shiny Mountain is no stranger to cheers or cries; most big sports games are broadcast on its several huge monitors and local sports fans often gather to either celebrate their victories or drown their sorrows. The pub itself stands somewhat in contrast to the more subdued Pot Still Pub, a Scottish whiskey bar owned by the same Toyama local Mr. Mitsuhiro Shimada. Mr. Shimada seems to have cleverly captured both sides of the drinking market – Pot Still if you’d like a quieter evening and Shiny Mountain if you’d like a more spirited one.

Despite something of a tumultuous beginning for Mr. Shimada, starting just before the advent of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, Shiny Mountain has been a core fixture of the Toyama restaurant/bar scene since its inception in 2019, the date of which is proudly engraved into metal dishes that can be found on the bar itself.

Speaking of the food, I suppose it’s almost a given that a British-style Pub would serve fish and chips and Guiness, but what’s almost more surprising is just how tasty it is. As a long-term resident of Japan, I’ve had my fair share of “fish and chips” over here – usually closer to fish fingers and French fries – but the perfectly battered cod complimented the soft chips very well. In addition, Shiny Mountain also offers a menu well suited for those looking for a break from the local cuisine; Shepard’s pie, cheeseburger and chips, chicken curry, and a reasonably daily special lunch. If you’re too stuffed from the meal itself, you can get the meal to go in a doggy bag, too – a bit of an American tradition but a very welcome one.

Shortly after opening, I left a Google maps review for Shiny Mountain stating “As a Brit, this is about the closest to an actual pub that I’ve been to in Japan”, and I still believe that to be the case today. As much as well enjoy the local food and drink that Toyama prides itself on, it isn’t a bad thing to crave some of the creature comforts from home while you enjoy your time in this beautiful area. It might feel like a bit of a guilty pleasure, but as soon as you start talking with the locals and learning more about the real Toyama than you can in most of the museums here, you’ll realize why you came.
Definitely worth a visit if you find yourself in Toyama!